Runway reality: the highs, lows, and caffeine flows

Grab your coffee and get ready to dive into the ruthless world of fashion, where coffee isn’t just fuel for the creative mind but is almost as sacred as couture itself. Yes, between a Dior dress and an espresso infusion, there’s often just a fine line. Paris Fashion Week is where the absurd meets the brilliant, where the wildest dreams come to life... but only if you’ve survived three hours of sleep and four liters of caffeine, of course. So buckle up (or better yet, strap on your Louis Vuitton belt), because the ride begins here.

If you've ever clicked on a hashtag #ParisFashionWeek, you know that these extravagant weeks don’t just showcase clothing. They dictate trends, shape the industry, and, let’s be honest, define who still has a place in this cutthroat game. From historic houses like Balmain and Chanel to rising stars like Germanier and Coperni, every designer is vying to leave their mark in a sector where innovation is a requirement, and repetition is a fashion crime that simply won’t be forgiven.

The History of Fashion and Fashion Weeks

Welcome to the history of fashion, a world that began in the plush salons of Parisian high society and has now evolved into a battleground where Instagram influencers fight for a front-row seat. But how did we get here? Let’s take a step back to the 19th century, when fashion was still a game played between tailors and ultra-privileged clients—a club as exclusive as a billionaire’s dinner in Davos. Let’s start with Charles Frederick Worth, a Brit who landed in Paris with oversized ambitions and a flair for the spectacular. Worth was the first to think, “Why not showcase my creations in action rather than displaying them flat like paintings?” A revolution indeed. He had his models literally strutting their stuff in front of a selected audience, creating the first-ever fashion presentations. Back then, “Fashion Week” wasn’t even a thing, but the roots of this universe of glitter and glam were firmly planted. Worth is to fashion what Steve Jobs is to the iPhone: the pioneer who changed everything.

Now, fast forward to the 20th century, and voilà, World War II breaks out. Say goodbye to Paris, at least temporarily. The Parisians had other things on their minds than their outfits during the Occupation (spoiler alert: resistance, among other things). Enter New York. In 1943, the first official Fashion Week is organized. But hold on, it wasn’t the Instagrammable show we know today. Back then, the goal was to promote American designers and raise funds for the war. Yes, you heard that right. The first Fashion Week was a fundraising event... not exactly what you picture when thinking of Dior or Balenciaga dresses. New York then rises to prominence. It becomes real competition for Paris, which regains its title as the fashion capital after the war, but now with a bit of transatlantic rivalry. Milan isn’t far behind. In the 1950s, the Italians realize they also have exceptional craftsmanship. No jealousy here; each city specializes: Paris in haute couture, New York in ready-to-wear, and Milan in luxury, handcrafted pieces. These three cities create the Fashion Week system we still know today.

But the real turning point comes in the 1970s. While in previous decades, fashion was something muted, almost mystical, the designer generation of the seventies shook things up. We’re talking about names like Yves Saint Laurent, who wasn’t afraid to challenge the norms with bold pieces. He introduced luxury ready-to-wear. Before, if you wanted YSL, you had to go custom, but he paved the way for collections you could actually buy (if you had a few thousand euros to spare, of course). And then there’s Karl Lagerfeld, bursting onto the scene as a breath of fresh air at the helm of Chanel, declaring, “I’m going to bring this house back to life”—and what a success it was.

During this period, Fashion Week evolves into more than just a marketplace for buyers. It marks the beginning of the cultural influence of runway shows. These events become major happenings, fashion media gets fired up, and suddenly haute couture transforms from an industry into a cultural phenomenon. Then we have Virgil Abloh and Demna Gvasalia, the anti-heroes of modern fashion. Virgil, with his designs at Louis Vuitton, literally fused streetwear with luxury, proving that sneakers can hang out with suits worth €5,000. He shattered the boundaries of fashion. As for Demna, he took Balenciaga and turned it into a walking social commentary. His shows became manifestos against consumer society, selling us luxury trash bags (yes, you read that right). It’s no longer just clothing; it’s political art on the runway.

We can’t discuss Fashion Week without mentioning the impact of the media. Before, only industry insiders had access to the shows. But starting in the 2000s, with the rise of social media, Fashion Week became a massive outdoor party. Everyone wanted in, whether to judge, mock, or simply fantasize. Today, it’s a global spectacle: we no longer just look at the clothes; we watch who’s wearing what, who’s with whom, and whether Kim Kardashian is going to show up late again.

In short, Fashion Week is no longer just a place where designers present their work. It’s an explosive mix of celebrity, influence, art, and money. It has become a mirror of our times, with its contradictions, excesses, and moments of brilliance. It’s a bit like a luxury soap opera, but it always ends with cocktails and applause.

The Most Impactful Fashion Weeks Around the World

When we talk about Fashion Week, it’s not just about clothes on models. It’s a glamorous circus, a spectacle where each city has its own role and personality. Paris is the elegant aristocrat, New York the rebellious urbanite, Milan the sophisticated diva, and London... well, London is the eccentric artist we don’t always understand but respect nonetheless. While some Fashion Weeks might slip under the radar, others have made history with scandals, bursts of creative genius, and purely spectacular moments. So buckle up as we take a tour of the most memorable shows from these fashion capitals.

Let’s start with Paris because, let’s be honest, Fashion Week without Paris is like a croissant without butter: just sad. Paris is the historic heart of haute couture, where the greatest houses have shaped fashion as we know it. And if there’s one designer who transformed runway shows into true artistic performances, it’s Alexander McQueen. Remember his Fall/Winter 1999 show, where a model standing on a rotating platform was sprayed with paint by robotic arms? It was more than just a show; it was a moment of raw art that showcased how fashion could push the boundaries of what’s possible. McQueen was like that; he never did things by halves. Each show was a theatrical masterpiece, where the line between fashion and performance disappeared.

Then there’s Chanel, with its illustrious creative director, Karl Lagerfeld. Karl was like the king of grandeur. He didn’t settle for basic runways. No, he recreated supermarkets, space stations, and even beaches inside the Grand Palais. The Spring/Summer 2019 show, where models literally walked on sand with artificial waves in the background, left quite an impression. To put it simply, Chanel during Lagerfeld's reign was a dream house where each season, you didn’t know if you were coming for the clothes or the surreal experience.

And of course, we have Balenciaga under Demna Gvasalia. He is the master of conceptual shows. Take his Fall/Winter 2020 show, where guests were plunged into a climate apocalypse, with a threatening water ceiling ready to collapse. Fashion as a premonition of the end of the world? Why not. Demna transforms Paris Fashion Week into a stage where fashion meets social critique. And yes, sometimes it’s unsettling, but that’s exactly what we expect from him.

Over in New York, it’s all about raw energy, urban dynamism, and the cult of innovation. New York is the city that gave Fashion Week a new dimension. Here, you can find the audacity of Marc Jacobs, who made waves in 1993 with his grunge collection for Perry Ellis. A collection so controversial that it got him fired, yet paradoxically marked the beginning of his ascent. Jacobs has always had this ability to shake expectations and play with the rules. In a more recent context, there’s Tom Ford. The former creative director of Gucci brought a touch of sophisticated glamour to New York. His shows are always events that draw the celebrity elite, and he knows how to put on a spectacle, with sumptuous sets and sensual collections that blend luxury with modernity. Tom Ford is the embodiment of Hollywood chic, with a hint of provocation.

Then there are the young designers shaking up New York Fashion Week. Telfar Clemens, for example, with his brand Telfar, revolutionized inclusive and accessible fashion, especially with his bag that has become a true cult object. New York Fashion Week is also a platform for new generations who don’t always play by the rules but are creating the trends of tomorrow.

Milan, ah Milan... If New York is urban and dynamic, Milan embodies Italian elegance. Here, we’re talking about pure luxury, refinement, and artisanal craftsmanship. Versace, for instance. We can’t forget the Spring/Summer 2018 show, where Donatella Versace revived the memory of her brother Gianni, featuring the supermodels of the 90s: Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer—all in gold, a poignant tribute to the golden age of fashion. Versace is about excess, glamour, and nostalgia. Then there’s Prada, a house that has uniquely redefined luxury for decades. Under Miuccia Prada’s direction, the shows are never what they seem. She plays with contradictions, between minimalism and exuberance, which is what makes Prada so strong in Milan. You could say she writes poetry with fabric while subtly provoking thoughts about contemporary society.

And finally, Gucci. Under Alessandro Michele, the house has become a cultural phenomenon. Gucci shows are extravagant, a bit crazy, with references to pop culture and art history. Who could forget the Fall/Winter 2018 show, where models literally wore replicas of their own heads? Not only was it surreal, but it also illustrated our contemporary obsession with self-image. And then, there’s London. Where anything is possible. London is the capital of avant-garde creativity, where Vivienne Westwood used fashion to convey political and social messages. In the 70s and 80s, she literally defined punk fashion. Then there’s Alexander McQueen again, a London native who conquered Paris. His early shows in London were raw, shocking, yet breathtakingly beautiful. London is the birthplace of young talents who fear nothing and are redefining fashion in their own way.

Whether it’s Paris, New York, Milan, or London, each of these Fashion Weeks has brought its share of memorable moments, stylistic innovations, and sometimes scandals. And let’s be honest, it’s often the scandals that really get our hearts racing.

Fashion Shows Throughout the Year and the Emergence of New Fashion Weeks

Once upon a time, fashion had a well-established rhythm: four Fashion Weeks a year in the major capitals—Paris, Milan, New York, London. And then it stopped. But today? Forget that. Fashion has turned into a non-stop marathon, with fashion shows spread throughout the entire year. Why limit ourselves to fall and spring when you can launch collections in the middle of summer or even smack dab in January? Between Resort and Pre-Fall collections, there’s now an endless array of offerings to satisfy the most impatient customers and the most ambitious brands. The idea behind these collections? To provide options for dream vacations or mid-seasons, events that didn’t even exist a few decades ago. But the biggest revolution in this saturated calendar is the emergence of new Fashion Weeks beyond the traditional big four. Because let’s be honest, fashion is now global, and cities that once flew under the radar are becoming genuine centers of influence.

Let’s start with Copenhagen Fashion Week. In recent years, this city has established itself as a leader in sustainable fashion. Here, the main concern isn’t just about looking good; it’s about being environmentally conscious. Scandinavian designers like Ganni are showing us that sustainability can be just as stylish as the sequins and glitter of the major capitals. Their collections focus on using recycled materials, responsible production methods, and above all, a cool, minimalist aesthetic that packs a punch. The result? Copenhagen is becoming increasingly essential for fashionistas who want style without the ecological guilt. Next, let’s head to Asia, where Seoul and Shanghai are rising stars. Seoul Fashion Week is now a must-visit for anyone interested in K-culture. Korean designers like Blindness and D.Gnak are fusing modern silhouettes with traditional cultural touches, riding the wave of the global success of K-pop and TV series. This is where streetwear meets luxury in the boldest way possible. Meanwhile, Shanghai Fashion Week has asserted itself as a significant platform for Asian fashion. Designers like Samuel Gui Yang are reinventing Chinese aesthetics, adapting them to contemporary tastes, blending tradition and modernity to appeal to an international audience.

The Middle East is also making waves with Dubai Fashion Week. Once known for its opulent bling, this city is increasingly turning toward a more sophisticated and diverse fashion scene. Designers like Michael Cinco and Rami Al Ali bring a distinct glamour with extravagant pieces that marry tradition and innovation. Dubai is establishing itself as a new luxury hub, straddling the East and the West. Last but not least, we can’t forget São Paulo Fashion Week. In South America, São Paulo is becoming the nerve center of fashion, with designers embracing Brazilian culture in their designs. Brands like Osklen blend local inspirations with a growing focus on sustainability, all wrapped in a vibrant explosion of tropical colors and textures.

All these new Fashion Weeks are much more than just copies of the traditional grand shows. They are redefining standards, imposing their own trends, and bringing attention to local or global issues, whether it’s sustainability, cultural inclusion, or stylistic innovation. The result? The fashion calendar is now far more inclusive and diverse, and the runway truly belongs to the whole world.

Recap of Paris Fashion Week

Paris, the eternal capital of fashion, has once again dazzled us with an unforgettable edition of Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025, which took place from September 23 to October 1, 2024. So, what should we take away from this avalanche of shows that made us dream, laugh, and occasionally raise our eyebrows in confusion? Spoiler alert: some hit hard, while others... not so much.

Dior, true to its spirit of innovation, kicked off the week with a memorable spectacle. Under the direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, the house presented a collection centered on female strength. The masterstroke? A live performance by Italian archery champion Sagg Napoli, who literally shot arrows at the heart of the runway. The garments themselves, dark and bold for a spring collection (dare we say gothic?), were both striking and elegant, proving that Dior is ready to challenge seasonal expectations. Yes, the gold accessories and perfectly calculated asymmetries left us speechless, but honestly, it was the archery show that stole the spotlight. On the other end of the spectrum, Saint Laurent shone with a collection paying homage to the 80s and its legendary founder, Yves Saint Laurent. Anthony Vaccarello combined tailored suits, leather jackets, and striped shirts in a surprising mix of power and sensuality. The showstopper? Bella Hadid, making her grand return to the runway after a two-year absence. Vaccarello once again proved he knows how to honor the past while remaining relevant in the modern era. Next up, Balmain. Olivier Rousteing, never short on ideas, explored surreal illusions with embroidered portraits and sharp silhouettes. The colors? A cherry explosion, black, and lipstick red. Yes, it was theatrical, perhaps a bit kitschy, but Balmain without a touch of madness wouldn’t be Balmain, would it?

Among the young talents making their mark this season, we must mention Kevin Germanier. With creations made from recycled materials—yes, plastic curtains and VHS tapes—his show burst forth like an explosion of colors and tinsel, evoking a wild party with an eco-conscious twist. No doubt, sustainable fashion has found its face in Germanier, and we’re here for it. What trends emerged? First, oversized silhouettes. Whether at Saint Laurent or Balmain, massive shoulders and wide cuts were everywhere. Then there were the nostalgic references to the 80s and early 2000s, a clear nod to the “boho chic” collections from Chloé under Chemena Kamali’s direction. The romanticism of fluid materials, pastel shades, and ethnic accessories dominated, proving that fashion reinvents itself without completely wiping the slate clean.

To craft the narrative of his Summer 2025 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière takes a nod to the Renaissance. His peplum jackets, inspired by the casaque—a short, male coat worn wide open with short puffed sleeves to showcase the arms—pay homage to an era that few remember. Seriously, who actually recalls what men wore between the 14th and 17th centuries? Only a handful of historians, bless them. So, to bring this throwback into modern times, Ghesquière designs these pieces in soft fabrics, featuring stripes that hug the body’s curves. He also incorporates tweed lined with Louis Vuitton's iconic brown Monogram fabric. Talk about ultimate chic—discreet yet undeniably luxurious, perfectly aligning with the notion that luxury shouldn’t be ostentatious but rather reflect a brand’s core values. The guests were captivated, with some, like Zendaya, making a memorable appearance.

Arnaud Vaillant and Sébastien Meyer, the minds behind Coperni, made waves with their Spring-Summer 2025 show at Disneyland Paris, an unexpectedly enchanting venue. It was the cherry on top of the Paris Fashion Week. Barely done with the Louis Vuitton spectacle at the Louvre, fashion insiders left the Cour Carrée to dive into the whimsical world of Mickey. And why not? The duo confessed that Disneyland has always been a source of inspiration since their childhood in the South of France. Upon arrival, guests were greeted by iconic Disney characters, rekindling childhood memories with dazzling light displays and catchy animated melodies. The Sleeping Beauty Castle, the perfect backdrop, witnessed models embodying both princesses and “villains” in creations that merged Disney's aesthetics with contemporary flair. From Mary Janes to sparkly mini-dresses and the new Ariel Swipe Bag made from recyclable silicone, every detail echoed the collective imagination. The magic reached its peak with Kylie Jenner, closing the show in a voluminous gown worthy of a modern-day princess. With this collection, Vaillant and Meyer invite us all to dream together, wrapping up Fashion Week on a dazzling note.

The pinnacle of the week for the industry was the Business of Fashion (BoF) 500 event. This gathering annually brings together the most influential figures in fashion—from designers to CEOs to journalists. A true who's who of the global fashion sphere. A crucial moment to understand where this increasingly industry is heading. And what about the Christian Louboutin event? The creator of the red-soled shoes took advantage of Fashion Week to launch his new collection in an exclusive setting: the show took place in a swimming pool where synchronized swimmers showcased the iconic red-soled shoes. The concept aimed to merge visual art with fashion, paying tribute to fluidity and grace. It was a spectacular moment that perfectly blended LaChapelle's boldness with Louboutin's elegant universe. It was one of the most coveted evenings of the week. Finally, among other notable moments, we must mention the unexpected collaborations that sprinkled this edition. We witnessed surprising synergies like that between Cecilie Bahnsen and The North Face, and Germanier continued to elevate recycled materials to prove that sustainable fashion can be vibrant, fun, and... ultra-luxurious.

And let’s wrap up with a nod to Loewe, which showcased a minimalist yet radically inventive collection. Jonathan Anderson played with simple yet luxurious silhouettes, creating looks of effortless elegance. A fashion lesson: sometimes, less is much more. So, is fashion still the ultimate artistic expression, or just a spectacle for disillusioned billionaires? Regardless, Paris Fashion Week continues to set the trends while reminding us that fashion is a game of illusion. But let’s admit it, it’s a game we love to play, even while occasionally being a bit cynical about this industry where everything is just glitter and illusions.

The Paris Fashion Week was nothing short of a fashion extravaganza, showcasing an impressive array of celebrities and style icons. Each runway was a canvas of creativity, and the red carpet was overwhelmed with stars ready to shine.

Cole Sprouse made a splash at the Rabanne show, flaunting a sleek black look that combined sophistication with a relaxed vibe. His presence reminded us that fashion isn’t just about clothing; it’s also about attitude. Barbara Palvin, the iconic model, captivated the audience during the Balmain show. Her sparkling dress stole the spotlight, confirming her status as a fashion icon. But she wasn't just at Balmain; she also graced the Dior runway, wearing an outfit that beautifully balanced chic and audacity, proving she can pull off any style with finesse. Ari Fournier made notable appearances throughout the week, particularly at the Chloé show, where she opted for a dynamic floral dress. At Miu Miu, she presented a look that fused elegance and modernity, adding a fresh touch to the event with her vibrant style.

Overall, this edition of Paris Fashion Week not only showcased dazzling looks but also celebrated the diversity and innovation defining the fashion world today. Each guest contributed a unique color to this vibrant palette, transforming the runways into living art galleries.

However, amidst all the fabulous creations and bold looks, we can’t ignore the shadows that loomed over the September 2024 Fashion Week, particularly at the Balmain show. Imagine the scene: eager guests, frantic photographers, and security barriers that seemed more decorative than functional. Yes, that’s exactly what happened, and trust me, it’s not part of the magic of fashion. Instead of maintaining order, the barriers were ignored, leading to tensions that rose as quickly as the temperature in a packed room. Photographers desperate for the perfect shot found themselves competing with guests who had been waiting for hours to catch a glimpse of their favorite designers. This chaos turned the red carpet into a battleground. Ultimately, the police had to step in to manage the situation, reminding us that behind the glamour and glitter, there are less shiny realities. It makes us wonder: Is safety really a priority in the fashion world, or is it just an afterthought?

And to end on a lighter note, which collection left the biggest impression on you this year? I want to hear all about it in the comments!

Conclusion

So there you have it, a whirlwind tour of Paris Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2025, and what a ride it was! Between the fascinating history of Fashion Weeks, standout events like Coperni’s incredible show at Disneyland, and the rise of young talents like Kevin Germanier, this edition has masterfully blended tradition with innovation. Louis Vuitton has once again proven its place at the pinnacle of luxury with its futuristic inspirations, while events like the BoF 500 and the Christian Louboutin dinner added their exclusive glamour to an already packed week.

But at its core, this Fashion Week also reminded us that fashion is no longer just about a runway and some fabric. It’s a universe where art, technology, and culture collide to shape the trends of tomorrow. Whether it’s the classics like Dior and Saint Laurent or the rising stars, there’s something for everyone—or every dose of irony, depending on your level of cynicism.

And you, if you could attend just one Fashion Week, which would it be? Paris, Milan, New York, or one of the newcomers like Seoul or Copenhagen? We can’t wait to hear your thoughts in the comments! Don’t forget to subscribe to the podcast, share your favorite moments from this latest Paris Fashion Week, and connect with us on social media to keep the conversation going. See you soon for more couture, coffee... and a bit of sarcasm, of course! Alright, take care!