Paris Fashion Week 2025: power, drama & high fashion
- Harmonie de Mieville
- Mar 13
- 9 min read
Updated: Apr 25
This episode’s audio was generated using Google’s Notebook LM, based on my own script and research—because I’m still working on loving my English accent.

WELCOME TO PARIS FASHION WEEK, WHERE FASHION IS BOTH AN ART FORM… AND A CONTACT SPORT ! So, you thought Fashion Week was just a fancy parade of overpriced clothes? Spoiler alert: it’s also a battleground where egos, ambition, limitless creativity, and backstage drama collide. In this episode—or rather this marathon of style—we’ll plunge into the merciless world of Paris Fashion Week for the Autumn-Winter 2025–2026 season. Get comfy with your cappuccino and croissant (or any equally vital pastry) because you’re about to get a backstage pass to an event that goes way beyond fabrics and glitter.
WHAT MADE THIS EDITION UNIQUE
A breeze of renewal… and scandal
Fashion Week 2025 once again proved how elegance and chaos can coexist with mind-boggling ease. In a post-Covid context and amid an economic slowdown, we didn’t exactly expect the industry to come out with heavy artillery. And yet…
Sarah Burton at Givenchy: picture a comeback worthy of a rock star. After shaping the McQueen aesthetic for years, Burton has taken over Givenchy, injecting an explosive combo of tradition and subversion. Fashion insiders applauded this revival like a sold-out rock concert, whispering, “Burton is saving the French house.”
Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford: another shocker in the fashion sphere. Ackermann’s refined style merging with Tom Ford’s provocative DNA? Some doubted; others prayed. The result? A collection that seamlessly blends ’90s sensuality with the over-the-top spirit of the ’70s—and then caps it off with unexpected minimalism. Standing ovation, please.
Balenciaga’s provocatively “ordinary”
Demna, known for courting scandal (think snowstorms and apocalyptic runways), decided to explore “normalcy” this time around. His “The Everyday” collection showcased office-worker silhouettes, teenage tracksuits, and even early-morning partygoers. But make no mistake: “normal” doesn’t always mean “tame.” Behind those rumpled suits lie clever volumes, surreal cuts, and that signature spark of madness that still makes everyone talk.
Eco-responsibility (genuine or not?) takes center stage
While some are investing in AI and holograms, others are bragging about being “sustainable” thanks to a capsule made of 20% recycled materials. Between eco-activists calling out greenwashing and genuinely committed designers, tensions are high: can fashion truly respect the planet, or is it just another marketing pitch? Debates are heating up, and we’re happily munching our popcorn as it unfolds.
Diversity and inclusivity… with mixed results
Yes, runways are (finally) more diverse, and that’s great. Some brands showcased non-binary or trans models, while others tentatively included plus-size silhouettes. Are we applauding progress? Absolutely. But we’re also pointing out how far we still have to go for real morphological inclusivity. The outcome: applause, boos, protests—basically real life in microcosm.
Ever more staggering price tags
Ah, the sweet paradox of a supposedly democratic fashion world where handbags go for €10,000. Even though shows are broadcast all over TikTok, price points have only climbed higher. This happens at a time when shoppers are more cautious than ever. Is it intentional contradiction or simply the logic of luxury? That’s the question echoing in the backrooms of the big-name houses.
PFW no longer belongs solely to Parisians—Chinese, Americans, and Middle Eastern fashion lovers pack the front rows, turning every show into a global cultural crossroads. Designers juggle with more international codes than ever, hoping to allure this glamorous crowd with multiple (and occasionally clashing) references. The result? A delightful mess, and everyone seems to love it.
Outrageous experiences: because everything’s about buzz
LAN party at Coperni: 200 gamers in the middle of Fashion Week—an improbable collision of two seemingly opposite worlds… or are they?
Grand Louvre dinner: a “Met Gala” with a Parisian twist, right under the iconic glass pyramid. Caviar, couture gowns, and a few uninvited PETA protesters lurking at the doors. Not enough to ruffle this unabashed vanity fair.
In short, the 2025–2026 edition set the bar high: from cultural clashes to the battle between greenwashing and sincerity—and let’s not forget some pure fashion magic. If you still believed Fashion Week was just about pretty dresses and catwalk struts, you’ve been painting with the wrong brush.
THE COLLECTIONS THAT DEFINED THIS PFW
Heritage Houses: When Legacy Collides with the Future
Dior – literary chic ; Maria Grazia Chiuri continues her love affair with intellectual themes by drawing on Virginia Woolf’s Orlando. The result? Revisited crinolines, androgynous silhouettes, plus nods to Galliano and Ferré. The color palette oscillates between black, white, and metallic highlights, reflecting a dialogue between tradition and modernity. Key takeaway: Starry embroidery, highbrow storytelling, and rumors of Chiuri’s imminent departure that add a dash of melancholy to the collection.
Chanel – playing it safe ; newly orphaned of Virginie Viard, the house opts for caution while awaiting Matthieu Blazy. Tweed, camellias, pearls—the classic Chanel toolkit is on full display, without taking big risks. Key takeaway: The refinement remains impeccable, but everyone’s anticipating something fresh. The real headline? Anna Wintour in Chanel couture at the Louvre gala, proving that even in “transitional” mode, Chanel is still Chanel.
Saint Laurent – nighttime glamour ; at the helm since 2016, Anthony Vaccarello knows how to capitalize on the wardrobe of a femme fatale: oversized tuxedos, super-short dresses, and those signature ’80s-inspired shoulders. The minimalist yet ultra-sexy show hit all the right notes. Key takeaway: A front row brimming with stars—Rosé (BLACKPINK) and Zoë Kravitz among them—making each model’s strut an irresistible Insta moment.
Balenciaga – subverting the ordinary ; Demna, master of provocation, “toned it down” this season by presenting normalcy as his new playground. Crumpled suits and office-worker silhouettes may appear mundane at first glance, but that’s precisely what intrigues: every detail, every cut, is designed to provoke a second look. Key takeaway: A greatest-hits show of Demna’s universe, more subdued yet still laced with sarcasm. The reflection on the “essence of clothing” speaks volumes about his post-scandal mindset.
Louis Vuitton – time-mix and showmanship ; Nicolas Ghesquière orchestrates a collision of eras: 19th-century crinolines, high-tech jackets, futuristic sneakers—all in an awe-inspiring setting (like the Cour Carrée of the Louvre or a similar historic venue). Key takeaway: An interactive LED handbag that’s getting major buzz, cementing LV’s spot as the “connected” luxury leader. And of course, Felix (Stray Kids) making a splash on the runway.
Hermès – equestrian elegance elevated ; under Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s direction, Hermès reaffirmed its equestrian roots while adapting to contemporary trends. The brand showcased dark leather ensembles—coats, dresses, and pants—on a runway covered with earth for a rustic vibe. Models in sharply pointed riding boots strode past curved walls covered in brown felt, evoking Richard Serra sculptures. Pieces like fringed skirts, short quilted jackets, and long wool-lined coats underscored Hermès’ seamless fusion of tradition and modernity.
Miu Miu – audacity and hybrid style ; true to form, Miu Miu embraced its bold side with a collection that fused unapologetic femininity and avant-garde twists. Think tiny leather skirts paired with matching jackets and the brand’s iconic legwarmers—a look that’s both edgy and sophisticated. Celebs like Sydney Sweeney, decked out in Miu Miu’s leather mini and legwarmers, amped up the show’s media impact. Hybrid pieces also took center stage, blending formal and streetwear cues with oversized proportions, confirming Miu Miu’s knack for reinventing codes season after season.
Spotlight on indies and emerging talent
Marine Serre – futuristic survival ; upcycled silhouettes, sporty-chic references, and an almost militant eco-friendly stamp. Marine Serre stands out as the voice of a generation craving meaning.
Ellen Hodakova – the sophisticated art of upcycling ; vintage bras transformed into clutches, seat belts woven into bustier dresses… Swedish creativity at the service of responsible, inventive, and irresistibly seductive fashion.
Burc Akyol – a gender-fluid wardrobe ; a mash-up of Parisian tailoring and Ottoman influences, this collection questions identity and inclusivity in a techno-folklore atmosphere—of course.
Matières Fécales – surreal shockwaves ; three shows in a single day, full-face masks, inflatable prosthetics… Prudence is not in their vocabulary. Their work pushes the boundaries of anthropocentrism. When fashion becomes performance art, we say: why not?
Minor letdowns and semi-flops
Off-White without Virgil Abloh still struggles to recapture the groundbreaking spark that put it at the pinnacle of street-luxe. It’s polished but lacks that magic.
A few secondary lines got overshadowed by the fashion heavyweights, leaving everyone wondering if they’ll survive this luxury jungle.
ICONIC MOMENTS OF PFW
Show-stopping looks
Dior: a dramatic coat embellished with icy motifs, straight out of a fantasy film.
Tom Ford: a glittery finale ensemble, rumored (so they say) to be reserved by Timothée Chalamet for his next red-carpet appearance.
Valentino: a lavishly embroidered gown featuring a giant cat’s face—yes, really—mixing kawaii cuteness with baroque opulence.
Star-studded front rows
Anna Wintour: the empress of fashion herself, unflappable, likely ranking everything in her mental notebook: “+1 for innovation, -10 for a seat that’s too uncomfortable.”
Dove Cameron, Lisa, Rosé, etc.: when pop culture and high fashion unite, virality is guaranteed. The hashtags #PFW2025 and #Iconic skyrocketed.
Mind-blowing scenography
Coperni’s LAN party: 200 gamers at a runway show—marketing genius or a geeky fairground stunt? Opinions vary, but the buzz is undeniable.
Valentino’s public restroom décor: a metaphor for intimacy? A nod to consumer culture? Or just a desire to trigger artistic discomfort? Either way, it got people talking.
Grand Louvre dinner: under the pyramid, a gala aiming to be the “Parisian Met Gala.” High couture gowns, ancient statues as silent witnesses, and a few well-chilled glasses of champagne.
Deliciously juicy controversies
Cultural appropriation accusations: one or two houses might have been a little too inspired by “exotic” crafts without giving credit where it’s due.
Diversity debates: sure, progress is visible, but when will we see a truly inclusive casting, sizes 0 through 20 (and beyond), more than once or twice a year?
Ballooning prices: a €15,000 handbag—seriously? While some in the audience are tightening their belts, luxury giants double down on elitism. The public reacts with perplexity, fascination, outrage… or all of the above.
WHAT THIS PFW SAYS ABOUT FASHION AND SOCIETY
From ’90s revivals and ’70s obsessions to Victorian inspirations, fashion rummages through the past. Why? Likely because in uncertain times, there’s solace in the familiar—plus a futuristic twist. The result is runways that recycle and reinvent, proving creativity is an eternal cycle.
VR, AI, phygital experiences—fashion’s been touting the tech synergy for years. Yet people still flock to physical shows. The takeaway? We love innovation, but we still crave the tangible magic of a real catwalk. NFTs were cute, but a silk dress is better.
Fashion in 2025 can’t ignore market turmoil: falling sales, inflation, political uncertainty. Yet luxury soldiers on with ever-higher prices. Contradiction? Sure, but also a scarcity strategy. While some folks rage, others clamor for more—if it’s expensive, it’s more coveted.
Climate urgency is unavoidable, and fashion can’t sidestep it. From brands incinerating unsold stock to those championing recycling, the debate is on fire. Indeed, Fashion Week spotlighted genuinely green initiatives (like Marine Serre, Hodakova), but greenwashing remains a lurking threat that riles up NGOs.
Beneath all the sequins, fashion also makes statements—feminism, gender fluidity, ethnic diversity. It questions identity and celebrates difference. Fashion Week serves as a microcosm of a world in flux—not as fast as we’d like, but still moving.
WHERE FASHION GOES AFTER THIS PFW
Sarah Burton at Givenchy and Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford: Two grand slams that thrilled the press and warmed the critics’ hearts.
The Indies unafraid of shaking things up (Marine Serre, Matières Fécales, etc.): Proof that the younger generation holds the keys to reinventing this industry.
Shows are livestreamed on Instagram and TikTok for universal viewing—everyone can savor fashion… in theory. But buying these pieces remains a privilege for the happy few. We’re witnessing a double-speed approach: digital openness versus sky-high prices. Is this model sustainable in the long run? Nobody really knows.
The ever-crowded calendar is under scrutiny: how eco-friendly is it to have multiple shows for each season? Between environmental concerns and wanting to reduce travel, some propose merging shows (men’s/women’s, couture/ready-to-wear). But these events are a pillar of the fashion business, so don’t expect a revolution just yet.
Brands using AI for prints or VR for runways are hailed as pioneers. But once the novelty wears off, only balance will remain: fashion thrives on excitement, without forsaking human touch. AI won’t replace the feel of a fabric or the emotional charge of live models walking in front of you.
Between artisanal heritage and digital experimentation, fashion is desperately seeking a middle ground. Consumers demand greater transparency, sincerity, and social awareness. The brands that manage to blend dreams, sustainability, and honesty could well reign over the next era of style.
CONCLUSION – REVELATIONS AND A CALL TO ACTION
And there you have it, dear fashion enthusiasts (and curious bystanders) of this grand theatrical production we call fashion. We close the curtains on a 2025–2026 Paris Fashion Week brimming with surprises, controversies, and unforgettable moments. From in-your-face glamour to unlikely LAN parties and €15,000 dresses, we’ve roamed a riveting gray area where beauty and contradiction collide.
Now It’s Your Turn
React: Which collections stole your heart? Which show left you awestruck—or annoyed? Share, debate, stomp all over your old certainties, and forge some fresh ones.
Keep Exploring: Subscribe, stay tuned for our next episodes, because fashion never stops—it evolves as fast as you can scroll on TikTok.
Question the System: Do you really need that wildly expensive bag, or do you crave the sense of freedom it represents? Probably both. But it’s precisely this constant questioning that fuels fashion—and makes it irresistible.
Between the lines, this Fashion Week reminds us that style is a powerful form of expression, a cultural combat sport that wages battles of ideas and trends. It’s political, artistic, economic—and always a bit theatrical. Let’s stay sharp: the future is already being written on the catwalks, somewhere between Balenciaga’s wild hoodies, Marine Serre’s upcycled dresses, and Louis Vuitton’s digital handbags.
Next Stop?
The Spring-Summer 2026 Fashion Week, where new talents will emerge, new scandals will explode, and we’ll be here again with our passionate commentary (and a hint of sarcasm). Until then, stay stylish, stay curious, and never forget: fashion is so much more than just clothing—it’s a language. How do you plan to speak it?
See you soon for more adventures—somewhere between dreams, reality… and the red carpet.
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