Menswear & Haute Couture 2025 ; highlights & must-sees
- Harmonie de Mieville
- Feb 2
- 12 min read
Updated: Apr 25
This episode’s audio was generated using Google’s Notebook LM, based on my own script and research—because I’m still working on loving my English accent.

Paris, the undisputed capital of fashion, has once again proven that it’s the only city capable of capturing the essence of an era… through fabric and stitches. Two weeks. Two Fashion Weeks. Two visions of luxury that will dictate what we wear, admire, or dream about in the months to come.
On one side, Menswear Fall/Winter 2025-2026, where designers walked the tightrope between heritage and avant-garde, pushing the boundaries of menswear even further. On the other, Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2025, a world of pure extravagance, where each silhouette tells a story and defies gravity with a nonchalance that borders on the surreal.
This season was full of standout moments: Pharrell and Nigo at Louis Vuitton, seamlessly blending luxury and urban culture like never before; Dior, revisiting the 1950s with surgical precision in tailoring; Valentino, where Alessandro Michele doubled down on theatrical opulence; and Chanel, drifting without an official captain yet proving that its DNA remains as unshakable as ever.
In this episode, I break down these runway moments, their impact, and what they reveal about the evolution of style. But also, how fashion and pop culture feed off each other. Because yes, teen dramas are more than just carefully calibrated Netflix binge material. They are generational mirrors, capturing aesthetics, aspirations, and, more often than not, shaping trends just as much as the runways do.
So, whether you’re a fashion aficionado or just someone curious about what shapes today’s visual culture, welcome to this special Paris Fashion Week episode. Sit back, because we’re diving deep into an industry where art and commerce waltz together in a dance that’s as mesmerizing as it is merciless.
PFW Menswear Fall/Winter 2025-2026
Every year, Paris Men's Fashion Week does more than just set trends—it captures the spirit of the times, crystallizes cultural obsessions, and shapes the way we’ll perceive fashion in the months to come. And this season? No disappointment in sight. Balancing heritage, experimentation, and bold aesthetic statements, designers delivered collections that exist somewhere between a deep reverence for the past and an unapologetic leap into the future. One thing is clear: the man of Fall/Winter 2025-2026 is no longer dressing to conform. He is dressing to tell a story.
Take Louis Vuitton, for example. Since taking the reins of menswear, Pharrell Williams has infused the brand with a hybrid energy—luxury seamlessly blending with streetwear, without ever compromising its prestige. But this time, he didn’t go at it alone. He partnered with Nigo, Kenzo’s artistic director, and together they crafted a collection that honors Vuitton’s heritage while embracing Nigo’s Japanese influences. Cherry blossoms printed on ultra-sophisticated ensembles, denim reworked with the artisanal rigor of master tailors, and a seamless fusion of casualwear and ultra-luxury that seems to define this decade. Vuitton continues to blur the line between formal and informal, between everyday wear and the exceptional.
At Dior, Kim Jones took a different approach to revisiting the archives. His starting point? A women’s collection from 1954, which he reinterpreted through a masculine lens with near-mathematical precision. The result: sleek silhouettes, cuts designed to sculpt movement, and an elegance that reminds us why Dior remains a pillar of contemporary tailoring. The nod to history is deliberate, but the execution is thoroughly modern—somewhere between custom suiting and the fluidity of ready-to-wear. In 2025, the distinction between the two is increasingly blurred, and Kim Jones embraces that reality.
Then there’s Hermès, which, as always, had no intention of revolutionizing anything… and that’s precisely its strength. Véronique Nichanian, ever faithful to her vision of functional elegance, delivered a masterclass in restraint. No gimmicks, no desperate attempts at TikTok virality—just garments designed to last. Impeccably tailored cashmere coats, leather crafted like sculptural pieces, and a subtle yet deliberate homage to the house’s equestrian heritage. At Hermès, menswear doesn’t need to shout to make an impact; it asserts itself through sheer quality and unwavering consistency.
And then comes Rick Owens, who, true to his post-apocalyptic DNA, has taken the deconstruction of masculinity even further. Monumental capes, tribal silhouettes, hyper-structured jackets with exaggerated shoulders—every look feels like it belongs to an alternate human civilization, somewhere between esoteric ritual and dystopian sci-fi. Owens’ vision of masculinity is part warrior, part enigma, proving once again that while menswear is often expected to be pragmatic, it can just as easily be radical.
So, what does this season tell us? That menswear is no longer just about perfect cuts and precious fabrics. It has become a space for self-expression, where designers constantly reinvent what it means to be “well-dressed.” Between Vuitton, which flirts with Japanese heritage, Dior, which balances on the tightrope between past and present, Hermès, which stays true to its unshakable foundation, and Rick Owens, who pushes the avant-garde to its extreme, Fall/Winter 2025-2026 confirms that today’s man isn’t dressing to fit into a box—he’s dressing to write his own narrative, piece by piece.
And this way of telling the story of an era through fashion? That’s exactly what teen dramas do, too. They capture the cultural pulse, they reflect a generation’s fixations, and, most of all, they shape how we see the world. So, after breaking down how fashion dresses us, let’s dive into how pop culture influences us—time to talk about the series that defined their era.
Haute couture spring/summer 2025
Haute Couture is fashion’s Olympus. A world where profitability takes a backseat to sheer extravagance, where craftsmanship defies gravity, and where every collection is a statement of intent. This isn’t just clothing—it’s a worldview, meticulously stitched, crystal by crystal, pleat by pleat.
And in 2025, that vision took on forms as varied as they were spectacular. A season marked by extreme contrasts—some designers explored transparency and delicacy, while others fully embraced baroque excess. But one thing is certain: minimalism was left at the door.
At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri delved into the archives, reimagining hoop skirts and corsets with a contemporary edge. The result? A series of sheer gowns with exposed internal structures, as if couture itself had become the subject of exploration. Lace, ultra-fine embroidery, silhouettes so weightless they seemed to hover… all presented in a setting inspired by myths and fairy tales, with a subtle nod to Alice in Wonderland—but make it Brat era. A declaration of elegance, but also a defiant shrug at outdated notions of femininity.
Chanel, on the other hand, had the industry holding its breath. The house is currently in transition, without an official creative director since Virginie Viard’s departure in 2024. And yet, this collection proved that Chanel doesn’t need a figurehead to reinvent itself. Balancing tradition and reinterpretation, it mixed iconic tweeds with unexpected color pairings and played with softer, freer volumes. Less rigid, more liberated, but still unmistakably Chanel. A blank page before the next chapter—one that could redefine the house’s very DNA.
Then came Valentino, marking a real turning point with the arrival of Alessandro Michele. The former Gucci creative director did not hold back. Maximalism, opulent textures, gowns fit for royalty—this collection was a visual explosion, each piece looking like it had stepped straight out of a grand opera. Voluminous dresses with intricate architectural structures, embroidery that felt almost painterly in its depth… Michele is making it clear: Valentino is about to become the new reference for modern opulence.
At Jean Paul Gaultier, this season’s guest collaboration took a decidedly gothic turn, oscillating between dark romanticism and nautical references. Picture corsets sculpted like armor, fabrics treated to appear as though they’d been submerged underwater, and headpieces inspired by ancient galleons. The entire show felt like it could have dressed a high-fashion dark fantasy pirate film. Spectacular, theatrical, and above all, true to Gaultier’s rebellious spirit.
Finally, Schiaparelli once again played with illusion and surrealism. Kendall Jenner stole the show in a corset gown that seemed to reshape her body, as if her silhouette had been redrawn directly onto the fabric. Trompe-l'œil reached new heights, with exaggerated proportions and optical illusions transforming the models into walking sculptures.
At a time when ready-to-wear is becoming increasingly functional, modular, and built for hyperactive lifestyles, Haute Couture is taking the opposite stance. Here, practicality is irrelevant—extravagance is the point. A return to grandiose fantasy, theatrical storytelling, and the idea that fashion can still shock and awe. A shift that could reshape pop aesthetics in the coming years, influencing film, music videos, and even the rapidly expanding digital fashion space.
And this aesthetic reach isn’t stopping at the runway. It’s seeping into everything we consume visually—including the series we binge. Because let’s be honest, the reason we’re seeing so many hyper-stylized costumes in shows like Euphoria, The Idol, and Bridgerton isn’t just creative direction—it’s the undeniable symbiosis between fashion and pop culture.
When fashion takes over TV shows
Fashion and TV series are no longer two separate worlds. Today, watching a show is like watching a runway in motion. Costumes are no longer just tools to define a character—they’ve become a marketing strategy, a narrative device, and, most importantly, a playground for brands that have realized their biggest runway isn’t in Paris or Milan anymore… it’s on Netflix and HBO.
Take Euphoria, for example. If the show left such a deep imprint on pop culture, it wasn’t just because of its neon-soaked aesthetics or emotionally chaotic plotlines. Each episode turned its characters into unintentional fashion models, pushing the boundaries of makeup, daring cuts, and hyper-personalized outfits. The most obvious example? Maddy Perez’s wardrobe, often featuring Blumarine, Mugler, or Marc Jacobs, which single-handedly revived the Y2K aesthetic in a matter of months. Euphoria didn’t just capture trends—it created them. After the first season dropped, searches for “asymmetrical tops” and “cut-out dresses” skyrocketed on Google. And brands? They wasted no time flooding the market with "inspired by" pieces.
And, of course, you can’t talk about fashion-driven TV without mentioning Gossip Girl. The original series redefined 2000s fashion, from headbands to Mulberry bags, turning New York into the ultimate showroom for aspirational teenage luxury. When HBO attempted a 2021 reboot, the storyline was questionable at best—but the costume budget deserved an Emmy. Gone were the classic prep-school uniforms; this time, every character was dressed in a hyper-curated mix of streetwear and haute couture. Because let’s be real—the Upper East Side elite aren’t in Ralph Lauren and J.Crew anymore. They’re in Balenciaga and Rick Owens. A shift that reflects a larger evolution in status dressing: today’s wealthy youth embrace a darker, edgier, almost underground aesthetic to assert their place in the hierarchy.
And then there’s Bridgerton. Because in 2025, the Regency-era fever isn’t over. From the very first season, the show brought corsets, empire silhouettes, and pastel hues back into the fashion zeitgeist, like a period drama painted in dreamy, romantic tones. And the brands followed. Runways were flooded with collections "inspired" by the early 1800s, reworked with contemporary materials and cuts. But the most interesting part? The influence didn’t stop at clothing. Jewelry and hairstyling followed suit. Dior multiplied its historical references in its shows, Vivienne Westwood saw a surge of interest in her neo-romantic aesthetic, and for several seasons, fashion flirted with aristocratic elegance… all thanks to a Netflix series.
So why has fashion become so integral to TV? Because today, image sells just as much as the story. The era of watching a show purely for the plot is over. Now, a series needs to be "fashionable," generate viral content, and set trends. Streaming platforms understand this better than anyone, and costume designers have become central to a show's marketing strategy.
And, of course, brands aren’t missing out on the opportunity. When a series blows up, it becomes a cash machine for the fashion industry. Official collaborations multiply, characters become accidental influencers, and fans rush to adopt their on-screen style.
Because if you thought fashion was just about clothes, think again. Behind all of this, there’s a very profitable business at play.
The Fashion Industry & Its Economic Influence
Fashion—it's beautiful, inspiring, and dream-inducing... But let’s not kid ourselves—it's also a sprawling business empire worth billions. Behind every runway show, every eye-catching silhouette, lies a meticulous business strategy, with investors scrutinizing every metric and brands calculating their ROI down to the millimeter. And Fashion Week is no exception.
Every season, collections from major fashion houses aren't merely artistic performances. They're colossal economic levers, capable of propelling a brand to new heights—or sinking it—if the commercial impact doesn't follow. And in 2025, this impact has never been more immediate or more calculated.
Take Louis Vuitton for instance. Ever since Pharrell Williams took over the menswear department, the brand has never been more bankable. His first show in June 2023 generated over €20 million in earned media value in less than 48 hours. This momentum hasn’t waned—each collection is a cash machine, propelling accessories, sneakers, and limited-edition collabs into luxury’s top sellers. We’re no longer just talking about clothes—it's a fully monetized visual universe.
And this isn't an isolated case. Dior, Chanel, Hermès—these fashion behemoths aren’t sending their creations down the runway purely for the love of style. A successful runway show is, above all, a commercial springboard. After a well-received Fashion Week, sales of related products skyrocket. That standout piece on the runway? It becomes a "statement piece" that will be sold as ready-to-wear, in accessories, or even as part of a fragrance or cosmetics line.
But luxury isn’t the only one cashing in. Fast fashion has honed its radar, instantly detecting what will be a hit. Nowadays, it takes mere days for a Zara or Shein version of a Balenciaga look to hit the racks or pop up in online shopping suggestions. The circle is complete—what begins in the realm of absolute exclusivity eventually becomes accessible to the masses... and luxury houses are acutely aware of this. Some have even embraced this dynamic, directly collaborating with more accessible brands—think Gucci and Adidas, or the Balmain x H&M partnership back in the day.
But what has truly accelerated this phenomenon is social media. Today, a runway show is worthless if it doesn’t go viral. TikTok, Instagram, and Twitter have become extensions of Fashion Week—spaces where each look is dissected, commented on, turned into memes or trends. We no longer consume fashion solely through boutiques or magazines but via reels and threads analyzing, in real-time, the trends emerging from the runway.
And at the heart of it all? Influencers. They’ve become the new luxury ambassadors, capable of catapulting a collection into the spotlight with a single post—or, conversely, dooming it to obscurity if it fails to generate engagement. Fashion has become a battle of algorithms as much as creativity. Designers are no longer creating solely to woo a loyal clientele but to feed a constant content stream, where each piece must be "Instagrammable," "TikTok-compatible," and spectacular enough to captivate an audience whose attention span barely lasts a few seconds.
And therein lies the ultimate paradox: fashion is more accessible than ever, yet more elusive. What’s trending today will be passé tomorrow. Brands must juggle desirability and exclusivity, rarity and virality, heritage and constant innovation.
So yes, Fashion Week remains a celebration of creativity—a laboratory of ideas where designers push the boundaries of aesthetics. But more than that, it’s a spectacle industry. A show where every detail is meticulously crafted to sell, to captivate, to embed itself in a culture of "now," where everything happens at swipe speed.
And perhaps that’s the true magic of fashion—a fascinating blend of art and commerce, perpetually oscillating between dream and reality, between vision and profitability.
Conclusion
Throughout this episode, we've seen that fashion isn’t just about clothes. It’s an industry, an art form, a well-oiled economic machine, and, above all, a language that translates the obsessions of its time. Between Menswear Fashion Week and Haute Couture, this season delivered a condensed dose of trends, boldness, and reinvention. On one side, designers redefining masculine elegance, blurring the lines between classic and contemporary. On the other, fashion houses pushing the boundaries of imagination, turning couture into an explosion of form and texture.
But this influence doesn’t stop at the runway. Teen dramas got the memo. They’re no longer just narratives about youth; they shape aesthetics, dictate trends, and capture what makes a generation tick. Whether it’s Euphoria, Gossip Girl, or Bridgerton, each, in its own way, reflects the era in which it was born—just as fashion mirrors societal shifts.
And behind all this, there’s a well-oiled machine. Fashion is a business, a spectacle, where every detail is meticulously crafted to sell, influence, and create desire. Between luxury and fast fashion, runways and Instagram, what we see today will end up in our feeds tomorrow—and maybe in our closets, too.
So, which collection stood out the most for you this season? Which looks have already caught your eye on social media? I want your opinions, your reactions, your favorites—and even your critiques.
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