Chanel: timeless icon.

Welcome to this episode of Cappuccino & Croissant, where today, we're diving into a true icon of fashion and luxury—a brand that redefined the essence of chic: Chanel. But hold up—don’t think we’re just going to chat about tweed bags and two-tone shoes. Far from it. While Chanel might embody glamour, its empire was built on bold choices, pivotal moments, and marketing that transformed every product into a coveted object.

Gabrielle Chanel, or Coco, didn’t just flirt with the trends of her time; she blew them wide open. And if you think today’s luxury scene has drifted away from the ideals of freedom and audacity she championed, then it’s high time for a closer look at her story. From the humble beginnings of a hat boutique to the daring designs that shook the world, Chanel has weathered highs, lows, wars, and, most notably, reinvention after reinvention.

In this episode, we’ll break down the history of this legendary house. We’ll cover Coco’s early days, the Lagerfeld era that brought Chanel roaring back in the '80s, the brand’s codes that have left their mark on pop culture, and even how it shapes our modern-day take on luxury. Balancing heritage with innovation, Chanel has mastered the art of reinvention without ever losing its essence.

So get ready to discover how a brand stays true to itself while capturing the zeitgeist and why, a century after its founding, Chanel continues to captivate us all.

The beginnings of Chanel and the Coco era (1910-1954)

Gabrielle Chanel, or simply Coco to those close to her—and soon, to the whole world—had neither wealth nor a prestigious name to lift her into fame. Born in 1883 in the small town of Saumur, her early life was, let’s just say, a far cry from the glamour and elegance she would later embody. After her mother’s death, Coco was sent to an orphanage run by nuns, a period that seems to have shaped her lifelong love for simplicity and discipline. "Elegance comes from austerity," she once said, likely recalling the black dresses and plain uniforms worn by the nuns that left their mark on her adolescence.

She began modestly in 1910, opening her first hat shop at 21 Rue Cambon in Paris under the name “Chanel Modes.” Her designs quickly stood out for their understated elegance, catching the eyes of a few influential figures in Parisian society, including actress Gabrielle Dorziat. Coco quickly understood the power of early 20th-century “social media”: celebrities. Dorziat wore her hats in a popular play, and suddenly, the name Chanel was on everyone’s lips.

But behind the hat lay a bigger vision: to liberate women from the literal and figurative constraints of fashion. Chanel dared to challenge corsets, puffy dresses, stifling fabrics, and, most of all, the notion that women had to suffer for beauty. "I want women to be free," she declared. In 1913, she opened a boutique in Deauville offering sportswear… for women! Today, it sounds simple enough, but at the time, a woman wearing pants or sports attire was viewed as eccentric at best, scandalous at worst. But Chanel persisted. She introduced jersey, a comfortable fabric often used in men’s underwear. It was a risky choice, but it paid off: women began buying her creations, drawn by the fusion of style and comfort.

Then came the 1920s, and Chanel became a cultural icon, a visionary. She created what is arguably her most iconic piece: the little black dress. In 1926, Vogue described it as the “Ford” of fashion—a universal dress that any woman could wear, whether to a cocktail, a date, or even a funeral, without missing a beat. Black, once reserved for mourning, became, in her hands, the color of pure elegance—a radical concept for the time.

And then, of course, there’s Chanel N°5. In 1921, Coco teamed up with perfumer Ernest Beaux to create a fragrance that “smelled like a woman,” a scent neither floral nor fruity, but abstract, complex, modern. Beaux presented two series of samples numbered 1 to 5 and 20 to 24, and Coco chose… number 5. Legend has it she said, “I’m launching my collection on the 5th of May, the fifth day of the fifth month, so let’s keep this number.” Beyond the anecdote, this choice shows Chanel’s sharp marketing instincts. Chanel N°5 became a phenomenon, a symbol of accessible luxury and mystery. When Marilyn Monroe was asked what she wore to bed, she famously replied, “Just a few drops of Chanel No. 5.” This line sent shockwaves through the fashion world, turning the perfume into a living legend.

During the 1930s, Coco Chanel cemented herself as an international fashion figure, but World War II changed everything. Chanel closed her boutiques in 1939, except for the one on Rue Cambon. The war years cast a shadow over her, marked by personal and political choices that would later tarnish her reputation. It’s documented that she had a relationship with German officer Hans Günther von Dincklage, an alliance that sparked controversy and accusations after the war. In 1944, she was briefly arrested, but thanks to influential connections like Winston Churchill, she avoided conviction.

After the war, fashion had changed. Dior’s “New Look” dominated, with its extravagant silhouettes and cinched waists. But in 1954, at the age of 71, Coco returned, defying critics who saw her as a relic. She relaunched her brand with a collection that stood in stark contrast to the trends, featuring simple lines and practical cuts. Her tweed suit, inspired by men’s jackets, became another emblem of her style, blending comfort with elegance. "I gave women back their freedom," she liked to say. And this freedom was the kind that allowed women to feel powerful, to move, work, and live without constraints.

The story of Chanel is not just the tale of a brand; it’s the quiet revolution of the feminine wardrobe and of a personality who imposed her vision on the world, no matter the cost.

The revival and success under Karl Lagerfeld (1983-2019)

When Karl Lagerfeld took the reins at Chanel in 1983, the brand was teetering on the edge of irrelevance. Since Coco’s death in 1971, successive collections had failed to capture the spirit of her style. But Lagerfeld, with his eternal black jacket and ever-present sunglasses, understood he wasn’t there to imitate “Coco” but to reinvent Chanel. "Chanel is inimitable," he once said. "The secret isn’t to copy, but to capture her spirit."

Upon his arrival, Lagerfeld infused modernity into the brand while respecting Coco’s iconic elements. His genius lay in his ability to play with the codes: he brought back the tweed, the black and white palette, the double C logo, and the signature gold chains—but with a bold, fresh twist. For example, he took the famous tweed suit, once rigid and formal, and transformed it into a rebellious, rock-inspired piece, shortening it and pairing it with unexpected accessories. Modernity became Chanel’s new mantra.

Lagerfeld quickly recognized that a Chanel fashion show wasn’t just a clothing presentation but a cultural event. The Chanel shows transformed into grand artistic experiences. In 2008, he recreated an actual Parisian street inside the Grand Palais, complete with cobblestones, street lamps, and Haussmann-style facades, as models strolled as if heading out for a baguette. In 2014, the Chanel supermarket became legendary: guests entered to find a life-sized grocery store set where models pushed carts filled with “Chanel-ized” products. “I wanted to show that fashion should be as accessible as daily grocery shopping,” Lagerfeld explained, a biting irony in an industry where even the simplest handbag costs thousands.

These audacious, spectacular settings turned each Chanel show into an unmissable event. Stars flocked, journalists swooned, and social media erupted. Chanel was no longer just a clothing brand—it was a spectacle, a celebration of imagination.

Lagerfeld was a master of image, making it an essential asset for Chanel. He chose ambassadors who embodied a modernized Chanel ideal, like Vanessa Paradis, the face of the Cambon bag in the '90s, followed by Lily-Rose Depp, representing a new generation of ambassadors who blended authenticity and sophistication. Lagerfeld also understood the importance of digital imagery—he was, in a way, a pioneer of social media before its time, betting on strong, iconic visual campaigns.

"He knew that every image could become a myth," said Virginie Viard, his successor. And indeed, with each ad and photoshoot, Lagerfeld created not just an aesthetic but a legend around Chanel. In the 2000s, he collaborated with renowned photographers to capture powerful images that became true works of art. With Keira Knightley, he created short films that went beyond mere advertisements, transforming into immersive mini-movies.

Under Lagerfeld, Chanel became a brand where every product held meaning, every detail was reimagined. The 2.55 handbag, for example, was endlessly revisited, using modern materials and various patterns, all while retaining the signature quilted stitching and intertwined leather chain, symbols of understated yet assertive luxury. Lagerfeld once remarked that "if Chanel changed, it would die. But if it stayed stagnant, it would collapse."

It was also under Lagerfeld that Chanel strategically expanded: fashion was joined by beauty lines, eyewear, and fine jewelry. Chanel’s creations extended beyond the wardrobe to everyday accessories, reinforcing the idea that Chanel wasn’t just a fashion brand but a lifestyle. In parallel, Lagerfeld elevated the brand in fine jewelry with the “Camellia” collection, inspired by Coco’s favorite flower, and with fragrances, still dominated by the world’s best-selling perfume, Chanel number 5.

Karl Lagerfeld held Chanel’s helm for 36 years—a nearly unmatched reign in fashion—marking each decade with eccentricity and vision. When he passed in 2019, the fashion world lost a visionary, and Chanel lost its genius. But Lagerfeld left behind an indelible legacy, an empire that continues to shape global luxury. Chanel under Lagerfeld was a story of revival, of the transformation of a dormant label into a cultural powerhouse. And as he himself said, “Fashion is ephemeral, but style, style is eternal.”

Cultural Impact and Influence in the Luxury World

If there’s one brand that has transcended the decades to become more than just a fashion symbol, it’s Chanel. Embodying French elegance and luxury—and beyond that, a lifestyle—Chanel today stands not just as a fashion house but as a cultural force, influencing not only the fashion industry but also popular culture and the global perception of luxury itself.

Chanel’s impact on society extends far beyond clothing. Coco Chanel, in a way, predicted—and even instigated—female liberation through her designs. Straying from tight corsets and restrictive accessories, she promoted a style that flowed with the body, allowed movement, and, in a word, liberated. Women of the time found in Chanel’s creations a form of quiet rebellion. With her trousers, sharply cut shirts, and "little black dress," Chanel reinvented women’s wardrobes across all social classes. Vogue even dubbed her the “first feminist of fashion.”

But Chanel didn’t stop there. Her concept of luxury was rooted in a kind of elegant discretion, distinctly different from the extravagance of some competing brands. Far from oversized logos, Chanel made subtlety an art form. The double C logo wasn’t there to shine with flamboyance; it was there to evoke a story, a heritage, without saying too much. “Luxury is something beautiful even on the inside,” Coco once declared, perfectly capturing her philosophy. She catered to clients who understood, who appreciated without needing a display.

In the 1950s, Chanel’s cultural reach took on global dimensions with the legendary fragrance Chanel No. 5. When Marilyn Monroe famously answered that she only wore “a few drops of Chanel No. 5” to bed, it set off a cultural shockwave. Coco Chanel, who was never one for false modesty, reportedly remarked, “Thank you, Marilyn. You did more for No. 5 than I could in a lifetime.” Other icons followed suit: Catherine Deneuve, Nicole Kidman, Keira Knightley, and Audrey Tautou. Each represented an evolving vision of femininity that adapted over time while remaining true to the essence of Chanel. These ambassadors weren’t chosen by accident; they were figures who, while widely admired, retained a sense of mystery and elegance.

Chanel’s advertising campaigns play on this image of sophistication and accessibility. In the early 2000s, Baz Luhrmann’s short film for Chanel No. 5, starring Nicole Kidman, set a new standard. It was a mini-movie with a multi-million-dollar budget—a statement that Chanel was not just a brand but an entire world. This approach to advertising became a reference in luxury marketing, inspiring other brands like Dior to adopt a similar cinematic storytelling style.

Chanel’s approach to luxury isn’t merely aesthetic; it’s conceptual. Lagerfeld, who modernized the brand while respecting its traditions, often described Chanel as “the art of the timeless.” He frequently spoke of the “durability” of Chanel fashion—a concept that contrasts sharply with the frenzied consumption trends of today’s luxury industry. While some luxury brands dove headfirst into high-fashion fast fashion, Chanel preserved an image of rarity. The 2.55 bag, tweed suits, and even Chanel No. 5 aren’t seasonal items; they’re lifelong investments, symbols that grow more valuable over time.

Today, this strategy inspires many other brands. Hermès, for example, uses a similar approach, limiting access to certain models to heighten desire. Influencers and celebrities play into this prestige, yet Chanel keeps its distance, avoiding the “too visible, too accessible” trap. Few brands achieve this level of desirability.

Chanel’s cultural influence reaches beyond fashion and marketing. Museums worldwide have dedicated exhibitions to Chanel, such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York with “Chanel: Beyond Fashion.” The MoMA even includes the Chanel No. 5 bottle in its permanent design collection, a testament to the brand’s influence outside of the fragrance world. In music and film, Chanel is a recurring symbol of elegance; the “little black dress” has become a cultural reference, worn in films, mentioned in songs, and recreated in artworks.

For Chanel, this cultural omnipresence is a way to guarantee longevity that fashion, ephemeral by nature, rarely achieves. By appearing in artistic works and museums, Chanel situates itself within a kind of imaginary museum where the brand becomes an artifact of modern history.

Ultimately, Chanel has built itself into not only a luxury brand but a true cultural pillar. In 2024, Chanel continues to innovate while remaining true to its essence. It retains that aura of timelessness, constantly reinventing itself while shaping mass culture and elite codes alike. Far from following trends, Chanel reclaims, redefines, and imprints its mark on them.

In today’s age of overconsumption, Chanel remains a rare exception in the luxury world—a brand that defies time and trends while embedding itself in our memories. Through its ambassadors, iconic fragrances, and timeless designs, Chanel has reshaped how we perceive luxury—not as a need for belonging but as an art of living.

Chanel’s Marketing Strategies and Brand Image

When we talk about Chanel, we’re not just talking about fashion—we’re talking about mastery in marketing. If Chanel remains one of the world’s most desirable brands, it’s because it understood, long before others, that selling luxury isn’t about selling a product: it’s about selling a vision, an experience, and a myth.

From the very beginning, Coco Chanel knew that her empire had to be built on a foundation of exclusivity. This lesson has been meticulously preserved by her successors. Unlike brands like Louis Vuitton or Gucci that leaned into limited editions and collaborations of all kinds, Chanel kept its collections “in-house” for a long time, reinforcing its image as a closed, elite house. The 2.55 bag, for example, has never been marked down or offered in flashy seasonal colors. It has stayed true to its original form, becoming a timeless grail, impossible to date.

Chanel also mastered the art of rarity. Boutiques often limit their stock—not because they lack production means, but because they know desire is the key to luxury. According to The Business of Fashion, this distribution control maintains a perception of scarcity. “At Chanel, you’re not just buying a bag; you’re accessing a circle,” jokes a former sales executive. This strategy of limitation reinforces the feeling that owning a Chanel piece is an exclusive experience, almost reserved for insiders.

Chanel has also perfected the art of storytelling. The brand doesn’t just sell clothes or perfume; it sells a story, a legacy, and above all, continuity. Each Chanel product tells a tale: the chains on the quilted bag recall the belts worn by the nuns at Coco’s orphanage, the camellia is a nod to her favorite flower, and the black and white palette has become a visual signature.

This storytelling shines in their fragrance campaigns. Take Chanel No. 5, a fragrance that—from Marilyn Monroe to Nicole Kidman—has built a legend of its own. In 2004, Baz Luhrmann directed Nicole Kidman in a short film, where she escapes her celebrity life to find love in a cinematic version of New York. The campaign cost millions but became iconic, revolutionizing luxury advertising by creating a genuine movie around a simple perfume. The message was clear: Chanel doesn’t sell a product; it sells a story.

Chanel has long shied away from the excesses of digital marketing and influencer partnerships, preferring ambassadors who embody timeless values. Vanessa Paradis, Keira Knightley, Kristen Stewart, and even Pharrell Williams represent the brand not because they’re “trendy” but because they bring an image of creativity and sophistication that transcends fleeting fashion fads.

Chanel’s ambassadors almost become symbols of the brand, creating a connection that feels authentic. When Keira Knightley became the face of Coco Mademoiselle, she represented not just a perfume but an entire idea of youth, sensuality, and freedom. Chanel’s advertising campaigns remain understated yet powerful, reinforcing the image of a brand with nothing to prove.

Even with the rise of social media, Chanel maintains a highly selective approach. In 2022, Vogue Business observed that Chanel is one of the few brands to avoid collaborations with “micro-influencers,” preferring to focus on established personalities. “It’s a risky strategy but perfectly aligned with the brand image,” says Sarah Willersdorf, a luxury marketing expert.

Since Lagerfeld’s passing, Virginie Viard has taken over Chanel’s creative direction. With her, the brand retains its essence while subtly evolving. Viard hasn’t tried to reinvent the wheel; she’s chosen to modernize what exists, introducing touches of color, experimenting with textures, and adapting classics for modern needs. For example, tweed jackets are now lighter, and the collections feature more casual pieces while retaining that touch of sophistication.

Viard’s shows, though perhaps less spectacular than Lagerfeld’s, still play on Chanel’s magic. Whether in the Grand Palais or unexpected locations like gardens or libraries, Chanel knows how to captivate without excess, focusing on ambiance and atmosphere over extravagance. Viard has also introduced sustainable fashion elements—a welcome evolution in a world increasingly attentive to environmental issues—all while keeping Chanel’s rarity and aura intact.

Chanel has succeeded in maintaining a marketing strategy that makes it not just a luxury brand but a cultural icon. Through controlled scarcity, powerful storytelling, and carefully chosen ambassadors, the house has established a unique model that many brands aspire to but none have matched. Chanel in 2024 continues to reign, reminding us that in luxury, it’s not the product itself but the dream it represents that holds true value.

Conclusion

As we journey through the history and evolution of Chanel, it quickly becomes clear that this house is not just a luxury brand but an institution in its own right. From Coco Chanel’s humble beginnings—where she shattered fashion norms with a mere snip of her scissors—to Karl Lagerfeld’s spectacular shows and Virginie Viard’s refined approach, each chapter of Chanel pushes the boundaries of fashion, continually redefining what “luxury” truly means.

In 2024, Chanel embodies a delicious paradox: both timeless and resolutely modern. The brand refuses to bend to fleeting trends, choosing instead to root its creations in a rich heritage while still innovating with unyielding elegance. Virginie Viard has proven she can juggle this legacy without becoming a curator of the past. By lightening silhouettes and adapting cuts, she preserves the essence of Chanel while catering to the desires of the modern woman.

Today, Chanel doesn’t just make fashion; it influences the zeitgeist—even cultural history itself. Whether we’re talking about its social impact, marketing strategies, or the imprint of its designers, Chanel is far more than a collection of clothes and accessories. The house has become a mirror of our society, a symbol of what fashion can achieve when it dares to defy norms, break boundaries, and pose the questions others shy away from.

What we remember about Chanel, ultimately, is this unique ability to inspire. Generations come and go, but the Chanel dream remains—immutable, timeless. But before we part ways, here’s a little question for you: what does luxury mean to you today? Is it that timeless quality, an object that endures and persists? Or has luxury become something more fleeting, more accessible?

If this episode sparked something in you or even just piqued your curiosity, don’t hesitate to share your impressions, your personal anecdotes about the brand, or even your favorite Chanel piece on our social channels. I always love reading your stories and seeing how, in your own way, you feel this living legend.

And of course, don’t forget to follow Cappuccino & Croissant on your favorite podcast platforms, leave a quick review—it’s thanks to you that the adventure continues, so a big thank you! Follow me on social media or subscribe at cappcroissantmedia.com. As for me, I’ll see you very soon for a new episode, where we’ll continue exploring, analyzing, and sometimes even dissecting our pop culture. Alright then, take care!